Whole and Kosher Food

Part I

We were thinking about fish for dinner and, as usual, our local Giant Foods seafood counter was bereft of anything remotely appetizing.  In fact, at 8:30 a.m., there wasn’t even a fishmonger at his station to receive our complaint.  So we crossed River Road to Whole Foods, where the fish is formally presented as if it were a real fish store.  Of course we know now that the fish presenters at Whole Foods have “lite” fishmonger skills because all the scaling and filleting is done at some central location.  You have to special order fish bones from Whole Foods if you want to make your own fish stock.

In any event, I was delighted to see that my favorite fish, Patagonian Toothfish -- I mean Chilean Sea Bass -- is not on the new Whole Foods list of politically incorrect fish to eat.  At $26/lb. I intend to take very small mouthfuls of this meaty flavorful fish, which will be pan seared for two minutes on the skin side and then baked for twelve minutes in a 450 degree oven.  I spied my favorite Vidalia onions, which with some sliced mango, diced yellow grape tomatoes, Thai basil, three small Thai hot peppers, lime juice, and 1/2 Tbs. of Thai fish sauce will make a delicious salsa to spread over the fish.

Part II

Having  planned dinner, I thought it would be fun to take a destination bike ride through Rock Creek Park to the Kosher Mart in Silver Spring.   At twelve miles from home, this would be the perfect distance to whip up an appetite for a pastrami sandwich on rye and a big kosher pickle.  Memories of great pastrami sandwiches flew through my mind as I pedaled from DC into Montgomery County on my way to lunch.

But the Kosher Mart turned my dream into a nightmare with its chewy tasteless meat,  Heinz yellow mustard poured into a Saval plastic bottle, pickles that must have been made from a Mormon recipe and cole slaw without any taste whatsoever.   Perhaps this could be redeemed by something chocolate, and I wandered over to Goldberg’s Bagels seeking to overcome the mistake I had made.  Their choices were limited, and I certainly was not going to opt for the recommended chocolate chip bagel, which seems almost Frankenstinian in concept.  We finally found a chocolate covered biscuit-like pastry with brownie filling and, after one bite, I realized that I had compounded my eating errors at the Kosher Mart.  It wasn’t calorie neutral, but the exercise was fun.

Bandolero Pop-Up

Our neighbors, Jonathan and Bethany Umbel, have teamed up with Top Chef Mike Isabella to bring a new Mexican small plate restaurant to Washington DC to replace  their former Georgetown restaurant, Hook.  Prior to the official opening at its M Street venue, the owners have opened for “spring training” in Cleveland Park at the former Tackle Box restaurant across from the Uptown Theater.

Last night we went with friends to try out this new venture.  We were warmly welcomed by the attractive trio of hostesses and escorted to our table upstairs, which was much calmer than the first floor. 

Dinner was prix fixe at $65 and included four different courses plus dessert, but not cocktails, wine or beer.  Although this was much more food than we would normally eat for dinner, it did give us an opportunity to explore the entire menu and get a good sense of what Chef Isabella was doing in the kitchen.

Our waiter reviewed the enticing list of cocktails, and I selected the Tamarindo, a margarita with curacao, lime and tamarind puree.  It was tart, complex and immediately replaced the caipirinha as my favorite latin cocktail.  The others chose the Our Way margarita (with and without salt) which was made with lime, blood orange, and Grand Marnier - and tequila of course.  It had great pucker and nice depth.

The first course for all of us was a smallish bowl of guacamole which had good flavor  but was a bit too smooth in texture for my liking.  In addition there was a salsa pasilla which had a deeper and slightly spicy flavor and “sikil pak” (a pumpkin seed dip), which was bland and tasteless. The accompanying chicharrones and chips were adequate, but weren’t worthy of a re-fill.

The second course consisted of taquitos, small crisp taco shells with various fillings, tuna ceviche, blue crab and beef tartare.  The presentation on a wooden board was clever as was the black bean paste “glue” holding the taquitos upright.  There did not seem to be enough tuna to give the taquito flavor; the beef tartare was bland; and although the blue crab filling was delicious it lacked any sense of a Mexican origin.

A word to the servers:  it was jarring to be served only one or two plates out of the four that should have come out together.  Perhaps we should have been told at the outset that the courses were served “tapas style”, if that was the intent.  Otherwise, it just seemed that the kitchen couldn’t get its timing right.  

The third course brought tacos, and we selected the mahi mahi, chicken, suckling pig and skirt steak versions.  We  all concluded that the seasoning was timid and the chef was big into bland.  Although the ingredients were excellent, the flavors were one- dimensional.  Indeed, the chicken taco seemed to have been conceived in the Graffiato kitchen with what I thought to be Italian flavors rather than Mexican.

Next came the “traditional” small plates.  The empanada has never been one of Mexico’s premier dishes.  Why put one on the menu and a fried one at that?  The sopes were fine, little corn flower cakes with minced lamb on top.  The enchilada verde did not distinguish itself, but the mole negro on top of short ribs was the best dish of the evening.

Finally came dessert, which unfortunately was not uplifting (or worth the calories).  No chocolate choice!  How come?  Mexicans love chocolate as do we. The tres leches parfait was nothing but a mass of whipped cream and other fluff.  Why try to improve on tres leches cake?  The spicy mango ice cream was fun, but avocado ice cream was tasteless.  Finally, the coconut flan seemed to have lost its coconuts and came topped with too much whipped cream, so the flan’s flavor was lost. 

Bandolero is clearly a work in progress.  I would recommend to the chef the KISS method - Keep It Simple and Spicy.

Zabar’s In-and-Out

It was early Monday morning, and we were on our way back to DC from Sharon, CT.  I asked Robin if she felt the same need I had for special NYC food.  She agreed, and since our Manhattan ETA was 10:30 a.m., we concluded that it would be too early for a pastrami sandwich at Katz’s followed by selective purchases at Russ & Daughters next door.

We hadn’t been to Zabar’s for some time, so that became our destination. We found parking on Broadway a block from the store; and though limited to an hour by the NYC parking meter, we thought we had enough time for targeted purchasing, but not the “museum tour” we had been planning.

A quick visit to the second floor, which is filled with kitchen and other home wares, enabled Robin to pick up some pastry gadgets which would be useful for pottery molds. We scanned the Zabar’s memorabilia shelf, and decided to pass on branded bags, oven mitts, baseball hats and the like.  On to the main floor.

We passed by the extensive cheese counter to the prepared foods section and were very impressed by the offerings. (Should Whole Foods send their chefs to NYC for take-home food training?)  Zabar’s “gourmet stuffed cabbage” is a favorite of ours.  We combined this with their tabbouleh salad, stuffed grape leaves and a tomato and basil tart.  Next we moved to the smoked fish environment and watched the countermen carving paper-thin slices of smoked salmon.  

We selected whitefish salad and chopped liver and moved to the bread counter where a loudspeaker had just told us that fresh rye bread was coming out of the oven.  Surprisingly, no tastes were offered, so no bread was purchased although we could not resist the cinnamon rugalah.  

As we passed the hot sauce, salsa and salad dressing shelf, Robin spotted a new brand of Japanese ginger dressing, which we added to our basket.  We ended by picking out two sandwiches for the trip home made with two different Eli Zabar’s breads (ciabatta and walnut/raisin bread).  We headed for the check-out counter quite pleased with our efficient effort.

All of this adventure for less than $100, and the meter had ten minutes left. 

Eddie, Our Novice Innkeeper

We were visiting family in Sharon, Connecticut, and learned that the former run-down, inhospitable motel and been completely renovated and was newly open for guests.   “Let’s try it,” Robin said rather than go North for a few miles to our favorite local B&B.

As we checked in before our family visit, the young woman at the desk assured us that all would be ready when we returned, and the heat would be on to counter the evening chill.  Jessica said that she was leaving her post shortly but gave us her phone number in case we needed  anything.  When we returned and entered our freshly painted room, the heat was not on nor did the beds have sheets or the pillows have pillow cases.  As I dialed Jessica, Robin went searching the property for someone in authority.

She returned with Eddie, the new owner of the Sharon Inn, which had just opened for business the day before.  He was very apologetic of course and took us to a neighboring room, where the beds were made; and he turned on the heat.  Robin asked if there was a place we could buy some wine, and Eddie said, “Not to worry.  I own a pizza restaurant six miles away; I will send for wine - no charge.”  As we struggled to turn on the TV,  Jessica arrived and the four of us took turns with the remote, finally accessing the cable system for which Eddie pays an exorbitant monthly amount.

Our hosts left, and all was well until Robin went into the bathroom and found that there was no toilet paper.  Back came Eddie, apologizing profusely with two rolls.  We settled in again, but when Robin went to take a shower, she discovered there were no bath towels.  This time Eddie returned with  two bath towels, a bottle of California cabernet, two wine glasses and more “I’m so sorries.”  Since it seemed that he didn’t want to leave at this point, Robin took the opportunity to point out that the table lamp was not plugged in because there was no nearby socket. There ensued a discussion about the failings of contractors and Eddie’s lack of knowledge of renovations.

As he was departing, he pointed out the new red Keurig coffee maker and left us with five additional mini-cups of different coffees, telling us to enjoy our morning wake-up beverage.  Sleep at last.  Nightly visits to the bathroom were challenging because the floor was freezing and we had not brought slippers.  Nevertheless, we awoke with anticipation of our coffee from the new Keurig machine.  Of course, it took the two of us 45 minutes to figure out how to make  coffee, but much to our delight the Sharon Inn coffee mugs were the most perfect mugs we had used in years.

As we left, I told this to Eddie, and he said with a broad smile, “Keep them; on me.”

And “we will be sure to return soon,” - now that we have been schooled in the eccentricities of our novice innkeeper and his new venture.

Restaurant Eve

         I  thought it would be fun to celebrate Robin’s birthday by going to Restaurant Eve in Old Town Alexandria, VA.  I have read so many wonderful things about this restaurant, but have never been there.  It seemed the perfect place for a celebration, and indeed it was.   A sign on a Colonial-era row house on South Pitt Street directed us to walk on a path at the side of the building to the entrance.

We were warmly greeted by two hostesses, one of whom led us to our table in the Tasting Room.  As we walked down the hallway, we passed the wine cellar, the kitchen, and the Bistro restaurant, before being shown to an intimate table in the corner of the Tasting Room.  It is a warm room filled with familiar decorative items and very comfortable seating.  The tables surround a center service island where the staff pours flights of wine and unobtrusively observes the guests as they dine.  There is also a second Tasting Room space, more like a sun room with light colors and banquettes for seating, but we were happy to be in the main room.

Our waiter/host for the evening introduced himself and described the experience.  We could choose from tastings of five, seven, or nine courses; and we could combine them with wines chosen to complement each dish.  Since Robin and I rarely have more than two courses at one meal we elected to stay with five.  I asked our host to recommend a celebratory cocktail, and Robin chose the the Big 'O' with pineapple,

Hendricks Gin, orange bitters, angostora bitters, orange syrup and lime juice, which was a blend of tart  and sweet citrus balanced by the other ingredients.  My cocktail was Spring in Jalisco with winter spices, Grand Marnier, Herradura Repasado Tequila, Evan's smoked ice and strawberry bitters.  All these ingredients combined to give the drink a savory flavor balanced with the tequila, visually enhanced by ice shaped  like a floating iceberg.

The chef then presented us with our first three of his many gifts:  a tiny deviled quail egg, a egg white sea salt crisp and  also a bite of salmon mousse on a lavash cracker.  As each course arrived, our server described the dish as it was placed in front of us. Robin chose “000” as her first course.  This was an oyster in the center of a vol au vent pastry shell with pearl onion and a dash of caviar.  I had the foie gras mousse with three small pieces of peanut caramel and a tiny bit of curry sauce.  This was a great start to the evening as both dishes matched our expectations. 

Another gift from the chef: this time a tiny lobster beignet with a “micro” cilantro (apparently that just meant that the leaves were small).  New utensils came with each course; our water glasses were constantly refreshed.  

For our second course, I had the poached Maine lobster with a smoked bacon broth and pickled crosnes (an unusual root vegetable, pronounced like “crones”).  Robin chose the vegetarian option of tortelloni filled with creamed Jerusalem artichokes accompanied with a fava shoot pesto and pine-nut parmesan cream.  We were both extremely pleased with our (and each other’s) selections.  A palate cleanser of grapefruit sorbet arrived and with it our wine selections.  

Robin had asked for a glass of the Argyle pinot noir 2008 (Newberg Oregon) while I picked the Pike shiraz 2008 from Australia at our host’s suggestion.  Robin’s wine was very much a solid Oregon pinot with wonderful bouquet and fruit, while my shiraz had unusual complexity to it with a surprising amount of tannin at the finish.  On to the third course.

Robin’s selection was lamb with grabanzo falafel, lemon yogurt, and cumin- scented marmalade. Cooked medium rare, the lamb flavor was exceptional.  The falafel 

was a delicious surprise.  I had the squab with brown butter radish and a fennel kentucky soy sauce with a dollop of pecan butter.  The flavors were intense, slightly gamey, salty, and sweet with a concluding radish crunch.

The cheese course was next, and unfortunately didn’t measure up to what we had earlier.  Robin was enticed by the Point Reyes Toma and Port City Optima veloute, which turned out to be a soupy mixture with a ciabatta crouton on top. Eating cheese with a spoon is not our preferred method.  Perhaps we should have asked for more information on this dish.  My choice was a local artisanal triple cream called “Moses Sleeper,” a clever twist on traditional bagels & lox.  But the cheese was not creamy and lacked much flavor.  

Finally dessert, where Restaurant Eve returned to its place of high regard. Robin’s choice was highly recommended by our host - a polenta and olive oil cake with lemon curd and lemon-thyme ice cream.  The flavors and textures were extraordinary.  We could have ordered several.  My chocolate choice may have seemed more prosaic - a chocolate and hazelnut gateaux with dark chocolate sorbet sand toasted cocoa marshmallow.  Here again different chocolate flavors and temperatures along with varying textures made for a great dessert.  And last came the after dinner miniardises:  birthday macarons, strawberry and rhubarb tartlets, and a chocolate crisp.

It was a wonderful evening with many new tastes; we must return.

All We Have Are Weeds

Last year, after four years on the waiting list, Robin and I were awarded a garden plot in Rock Creek Park off Oregon Avenue.  It is a beautiful area, five minutes from our home, near the park police stables with a lovely grassy field behind the 90 or so garden plots and surrounded by tall trees. 

In anticipation of clean-up day, which is next week, I decided to make my first visit of the spring to check things out.  Much to my surprise, at least half of the garden plots were groomed and planted with spinach. lettuce and kale emerging from the soil. Not that I am into competitive gardening, but  we haven’t even had “clean-up day” yet - wow.

Quickly, I grabbed a wheelbarrow and a shovel and began stockpiling wood chips in the corner of our plot.  Paul, with whom we share our plot,  had already weeded and turned his soil; bags of organic soil enhancer were piled on his side near the fence.   I began to panic.  How could we have missed that warm two week period in March when our fellow gardeners were busy weeding, tilling and planting. What were we doing lunching in Greenwich Village and walking the High Line?  Why did we take naps after going to the gym instead of being urgent and responsible gardeners?

At least we do have a plan - tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and pole beans - BUT FIRST, we have to weed.

Foodie Field Trip

Robin said we were going on a field trip, but would not tell me our destination.  Soon we found ourselves in unfamiliar territory, Route 123 in Vienna, Virginia (or Maple  Avenue, as it is known locally).  Our first stop was the Maple Avenue Market (128 Maple Avenue East), a smallish shop filled with locally grown and locally produced foodstuffs.

Experienced foragers, we soon found a theme for dinner - grilled open faced portobello mushroom sandwiches - and almost all the ingredients were in front of us.  The mushrooms were of medium size, dark and plump.  Boxes of tender, baby spinach leaves had just arrived.  There was one package of nitrate free bacon remaining, and lots of different goat cheeses to choose from.  Sadly we did have to resort to Whole Foods (across the street) for Maine vine ripened tomatoes; a new basil plant was sitting in our kitchen. 

When I asked about dessert, Robin said that she had it covered. Pie Gourmet, Ltd. is a small  bakery located at 507 Maple Avenue West.  As we entered we were confronted with a cabinet of fruit pies - cherry, strawberry, blackberry/peach, and another one with cream pies - chocolate, banana, coconut and key lime. It was overwhelming.  How would we choose? We  left with one cherry pie and one chocolate cream pie.

Assembling the open faced sandwich was easy.  Drizzle the mushrooms with olive oil and put them in a 400 degree oven for 5 minutes.  Assemble by adding goat cheese, bacon, a slice of tomato and put under the broiler for a minute and a half.  Meanwhile steam the spinach leaves for three minutes.  First, put the spinach on a plate, add the assembled portobello from the broiler and top with fresh basil.  We chose an elegant pinot noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley, and enjoyed the results of our field trip immensely.